If your power bill has crept up over the seasons, there is a good chance your air conditioner’s coils are part of the story. I have opened a lot of air handlers and condensers across Central Florida. Even in tidy homes, coils pick up film and fines that you cannot see from the hallway. A little dirt on the evaporator coil and the outdoor condenser forces longer run times, higher head pressures, and warmer indoor air that never feels quite right. Cleaning those coils the right way restores heat transfer, improves humidity control, and brings the bill back in line.

The Two Coils That Decide Your Energy Use

Your system moves heat, not just cold air. Two coils do the heavy lifting.

Evaporator coil inside the air handler

Warm indoor air passes over this very cold coil. Heat moves into the refrigerant and moisture condenses on the fins. If the coil face is dirty or airflow is weak, you lose sensible cooling and moisture removal in one shot.

Condenser coil outside

This is the big finned radiator around your outdoor unit. It rejects heat into the outdoor air. If grass clippings, lint, salt film, or road dust clog these fins, the compressor has to run at higher pressure and amp draw to push the same amount of heat out.

How Dirt Raises Your Energy Bill

  • Longer cycles to reach set temperature
  • Higher head pressure at the outdoor unit, which drives up compressor amps
  • Poor moisture removal, so you drop the thermostat lower to feel comfortable
  • More frequent icing at the evaporator when airflow drops
  • Hot rooms at the ends of long duct runs since supply air leaves the coil warmer

When coils are clean, refrigerant can absorb and release heat at the rates the equipment was built for. You get the full capacity you paid for and fewer nuisance calls during peak heat.

Signs Your Coils Need Cleaning

Homeowner clues

  • Vent air does not feel as cool as it used to
  • System runs longer but the house still feels humid
  • Musty odor at startup that fades after a couple of minutes
  • Outdoor unit feels very hot to the touch on the sides after a short run
  • Higher than normal bill without a big change in usage

What we measure

  • Supply and return temperature split outside the healthy range
  • High static pressure across the air handler or coil
  • Elevated head pressure and compressor amps at the condenser
  • Visible matting on coil fins or greasy film that traps dust
  • Condensate pan with heavy slime or frequent drain clogs

Florida Factors That Gunk Up Coils Faster

Our climate is a perfect storm for dirty coils.

  • Long cooling seasons with heavy run time
  • High indoor humidity that keeps the evaporator coil wet for hours
  • Pollen, oak dust, and coastal salt that stick to outdoor fins
  • Dryer vents and lawn equipment blowing lint and clippings at the condenser
  • Cooking vapors and candles that create a sticky coating on the indoor side
  • Leaky returns that pull attic dust and insulation fibers across the coil

Tightening up the return side and using the right filter helps, but even well cared for systems need periodic coil cleaning in Florida.

What Proper Coil Cleaning Includes

Evaporator coil cleaning

  • Isolate power, remove access panels, and protect electronics and flooring
  • Inspect the coil, pan, and blower, and note any icing or heavy growth
  • Choose the correct non acidic cleaner for the coil material and contamination
  • Apply and allow dwell time so the foam lifts film from between the fins
  • Rinse safely where design allows, or use no rinse products made for indoor coils
  • Clean the drain pan and trap, then flush the condensate line at the cleanout
  • Verify pitch so water drains fully from the pan after each cycle
  • Recheck temperature split and static pressure after reassembly

Condenser coil cleaning

  • Disconnect power and remove top fan assembly when needed for access
  • Wet the coil to loosen debris, then rinse from the inside out
  • Use a coil cleaner that will not attack aluminum fins or coatings
  • Straighten minor fin damage with a fin comb
  • Reassemble, check fan rotation and amp draw, and clear vegetation for airflow

The goal is to restore the thin boundary layer on the fins so heat can move efficiently again without bending or thinning the metal.

What You Can Safely Do Yourself

  • Keep a two foot clearance around the outdoor unit and trim shrubs
  • Gently rinse the condenser coil from the inside out with a garden hose if the top is easily removed and you can do so safely
  • Replace the air filter on schedule and make sure it seals without gaps
  • Pour a small amount of approved condensate pan cleaner at the drain cleanout if you have one, then flush with water
  • Keep supply and return grilles open and clear

Avoid pressure washers on the condenser. High pressure bends fins and forces dirt deeper into the coil. Do not spray household chemicals on the indoor coil. Those can corrode metals and create fumes inside your home.

What To Avoid During Coil Cleaning

  • Acid cleaners on modern aluminum and microchannel coils
  • Bleach in the condensate system or on the coil
  • Mixing cleaners or using strong solvents indoors
  • Running the fan full time to “dry the coil” without proper dehumidify control
  • Brushing the coil face with stiff tools that crush fins and reduce surface area

Coils are thin and efficient by design. Gentle methods and the right chemistry keep them working like new.

How Clean Coils Lower kWh In Plain English

Clean coils drop resistance to heat flow. That means:

  • Lower compressor head pressure at the outdoor unit, which reduces amp draw
  • Cooler supply air at the vents, so the thermostat is satisfied sooner
  • Better moisture removal at the evaporator, so you feel comfortable at a higher thermostat setting
  • Less run time across the day, which reduces wear on capacitors, contactors, and blower motors

Every home is different, but homeowners often notice steadier temperatures, drier air, and a bill that looks more like last year’s same month once coils and drains are back in shape.

Coil Cleaning, SEER2, and System Life

SEER2 is a lab rating based on clean, properly installed equipment. In the field, dirt on the coil and poor airflow knock real efficiency down. Regular coil cleaning helps your equipment perform closer to its rated SEER2. It also protects the compressor from chronic high pressure operation and protects the blower from working against high static. Clean systems live longer and hold their capacity later in life.

Pair Cleaning With These Upgrades For Best Results

  • A sealed filter cabinet or media cabinet that stops bypass dust
  • Return duct sealing to keep attic air and fibers out of the air handler
  • A quality pleated filter in the right MERV range for your system
  • A UV light aimed at the wet side of the evaporator to slow biofilm between visits
  • Surge protection to protect sensitive controls during storm season
  • A maintenance plan with spring coil service and drain line cleaning

These items work together. You get cleaner coils that stay clean longer, better humidity control, and fewer service calls.

Our Service Process For Coil Cleaning

  • Listen to your concerns and review recent bills and filter history
  • Inspect the air handler, coil face, blower wheel, and condensate system
  • Measure static pressure and temperature split before cleaning
  • Clean the evaporator coil and drain system with the right chemistry
  • Clean the condenser coil from the inside out and straighten minor fin damage
  • Recheck pressures, amp draw, temperature split, and humidity
  • Share photos of before and after and go over any duct or return leaks we found
  • Provide a simple report with maintenance tips and any recommended fixes

You will know exactly what we did and what to expect next.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should coils be cleaned in Florida?

Most homes benefit from a professional coil and drain service once a year. Homes near the coast, with multiple pets, heavy cooking, or construction dust may need attention a bit sooner on the outdoor side.

Will coil cleaning fix high humidity?

It often helps a lot. Clean evaporator coils improve moisture removal and allow longer, healthier cycles. If humidity stays high, we look at sizing, duct leaks on the return side, blower speed, and thermostat fan settings.

Can I just spray a scented cleaner to remove odors?

Scents cover up the problem for a day or two. Odors come back until the coil and pan are clean and the drain moves water out quickly after each cycle.

Do higher MERV filters keep coils clean forever?

Better filtration helps, but nothing replaces periodic coil care in our climate. We match MERV to your blower and ductwork so you get cleaner air without choking airflow.

How long does a proper cleaning take?

Most single family homes can be inspected, cleaned, and tested in one visit. Complex access, heavy growth, or damaged fins can take longer. You will get a clear time estimate on site.

The Bottom Line

Coils are the heart of your cooling system. When they are dirty, your air conditioner works harder, runs longer, and leaves the home more humid than it should be. When they are clean, you get stronger cooling, lower amp draw, and steady comfort without chasing the thermostat down. In Florida, regular coil cleaning is not an upgrade. It is smart maintenance that pays for itself through lower energy use and fewer repairs.

Call Florida Air, Inc.

If your system runs long, feels humid, or your bill is higher than it should be, we can help. Call Florida Air, Inc. for a coil and drain inspection and a thorough cleaning. We offer fast after hours emergency service, free in home estimates on new systems, and a 30 day warranty on service repairs. Ask about our maintenance plans and our 10 year parts warranty on new installations. Your comfort is our business, and we are your hometown team for hometown service.